Debunking myths about sun safety, sunscreen and sun sensitive essential oils

With the weather warming up, I thought it would be a good time to chat about the sun, debunk a few sun safety myths, and talk about photosensitive essential oils.

Is the sun a friend or foe?

Generally, people fall into one of two categories:

1) The sun seekers who think give me all the sun and sunscreen is bad OR

2) The sun avoiders who think the sun is bad and give me all the sunscreen!

I fall into both categories as the sun has both positive and negative effects on the body.

Some benefits of the sun:

• Increases the release of serotonin which elevates mood and focus

• Helps regulate our circadian rhythm

• Increases the production of vitamin D which is a hormone that benefits the immune system and helps build strong bones

Some negatives of the sun:

• Skin damage and hyperpigmentation 

• Aging and wrinkles (the sun contributes to 80% of aging)

• Increased risk of skin cancer

Even though the sun is natural doesn’t make it safe under all circumstances. Too much UV radiation from the sun is an example of that. Our bodies have amazing protective mechanisms in place to handle sun damage, but they haven’t evolved to overcome damage from the excessive sun exposure.  For my family, we like to get outside first thing in morning and in evening. If outside during peak hours (11am-4pm) we use a mineral sunscreen.  Morning sun is a huge part of our day and really helps set the tone for a happy day.

Morning Sun:

• Is critical in syncing our circadian rhythms so we sleep better at night.

• Improves our energy as it directly powers our mitochondria (increases number and function) which are responsible for our energy levels.

• Can reduce anxiety and calm the mind.

• Is essential for not only creating vitamin D but also other hormones like dopamine (reward chemical) and serotonin (mood stabilizer).

• May support inflammation by increasing blood flow and the body's antioxidant defenses.

• Can counteract the effects of blue light.

Want to learn more about morning sun? A neuroscientist, Dr. Andrew Huberman with Huberman Labs has done some fascinating research on this.

Let’s dive into debunking some sun myths and clarify some misunderstandings regarding sun safety.

Myth: You can only burn through UVB rays

The sun emits both UVA and UVB rays. UVB rays have shorter wavelengths, higher energy and directly damage DNA. They affect the outermost layers of the skin and cause sunburn. UVA rays have higher wavelengths but lower energy levels and penetrate cells deeper in the skin causing indirect damage to DNA. They can also cause sunburn, age skin, cause wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

Myth: A higher SPF indicates better sun protection
SPF stands for sun protection factor. The SPF rating tells you how long you can stay in the sun without getting burned while wearing that sunscreen compared with how long you can stay in the sun before you burn without wearing that sunscreen. A higher SPF doesn’t indicate better sun protection, it indicates that you will remain protected in the sun for a longer amount of time. For example: SPF 2 product protects your skin just as effectively as one with an SPF of 30. However, SPF 2 sunscreen will need to be applied more frequently.

So, if your skin would usually burn after 10 minutes, using a sufficient amount of SPF 15 would protect you from UVB rays for 15 times longer, to equal 150 minutes. This means, for the most part, the higher the SPF number, the longer your skin is protected from sunburn. However, take into account sweat, water exposure, photosensitive drugs (and oils!) can impact the effectiveness so reapply often!

Myth: Mineral sunscreen doesn’t work as well as chemical sunscreen

Let’s first talk about the differences between mineral and chemical sunscreen.

Chemical Sunscreen: think chemical absorbers. Ex: avobenzone or oxybenzone. Instead of physically deflecting UV light, these molecules absorb UV radiation through their chemical bonds. The positive of chemical sunscreen is that they are clear and easy to apply. However, there are quite a few negatives to using chemical sunscreens. They are more likely to cause irritation and allergic reactions for one. Some ingredients in chemical sunscreen have recently come under fire for possibly being carcinogenic and harmful. Scientists found that oxybenzone absorbs into the skin and is present in urine long after sunscreen is applied. It has also been found in breast milk so some researchers have suggested not using sunscreens containing this chemical on children. It also has a potential to disrupt the endocrine system. There tends to be multiple recalls on chemical sunscreens every summer. Last summer, Johnson and Johnson recalled 6 popular sunscreens due to risk of being contaminated with benzene.

In addition, most chemical sunscreens are banned in Hawaii and Key West as well as several other countries across the world. Scientific studies have shown that oxybenzone and octinoxate are toxic to corals and other marine life.

Mineral Sunscreen: think physical blockers Ex: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They reflect UV rays, similar to how white paint reflects light. Remember the white-colored noses on beach-goers in the 1980s and 1990s? Yup, good old mineral sunscreen. We don’t see those white noses as much anymore because manufacturers make the inorganic particles much smaller now. Some negatives of mineral sunscreen is they tend to be thick, white and greasy. Some positives are that they generally do not cause irritation, stinging or allergic reactions. In addition, they are a safer alternative for humans as well as marine life.

Here are the top ingredients to avoid if concerned and wanting to use a safer sunscreen:

• Oxybenzone

• Octinoxate

• Homosalate

• Octisalate

• Octocrylene

*Note: Sadly in this day of age we can’t trust the front labels of products either so if you are wanting to avoid those ingredients make sure you read the back labels.

Myth: Diluting mineral sunscreen still makes it safe and effective

You should NOT hack or dilute sunscreen. Sunscreen is formulated by chemical engineers and regulated by the FDA. By adding extra oil, tints, or lotions to sunscreen, it can impact the way the formula spreads and dries and thus impact the SPF protection and effectiveness.

SPF comes from:

1. The amount of active ingredient

2. The distribution of the active ingredient within the sunscreen

3. Interactions between different ingredients

4. The pH of the sunscreen

5. How the sunscreen has been mixed

6. How the sunscreen applies to the skin

7. How the sunscreen dries on the skin

8. Separation and degradation on the skin

9. Settling and degradation in the bottle over time

Myth: Carrot seed essential oil protects the skin from the sun

Contrary to what some may think, carrot seed does NOT protect skin from the sun. It does NOT have an SPF effect! There was a 2009 study that has been misinterpreted as carrot seed oil playing a role in protecting the skin from UVA and UVB sunrays but carrot seed oil was only a component in the herbal sunscreen and was not tested alone therefore it can not be concluded that it has a SPF effect and should NOT be used as a sunscreen. No essential oils have been proven to be effective against UV rays. However, essential oils can really help in after-sun care promoting skin healing and regeneration.

Photosensitive Essential Oils

Photosensitization is the process in which ultraviolet (UV) radiation combines with a particular substance and causes chemical or biological changes. Some essential oils contain furocoumarins, a special class of constituent that can cause photosensitization of the skin. The most commonly found furocoumarins in essential oils are bergapten and oxypeucedanin. The chemical structure of these molecules (and their metabolites) allows them to form cross-links with skin cell DNA, in turn making the skin especially susceptible to UV radiation. During the process, free radicals and singlet oxygen are also formed and can inflict damage on cellular membranes, organelles, and proteins. If exposed to sunlight (which gives off UV radiation) after topical application of a photosensitive oil, the skin may become temporarily darkly pigmented, red, or irritated.

Essential oils that are photosensitive:

• Angelica Root

• Bergamot (cold-pressed)

• Bitter orange (cold-pressed)

• Grapefruit (cold-pressed)

• Lemon (cold-pressed)

• Lime (cold-pressed)

• Mandarin

• Rue

• Cumin

*Avoid blends containing these essential oils to decrease risk of photosensitive reactions.

This warning applies to “leave-on” preparations such as oils, lotions and balms. There is no risk from “wash-off” products, such as soaps, shampoos and bubble baths.

How to use photosensitive essential oils safely

• Use photosensitive oils at nighttime. This helps reduce the risks associated with these oils. Most photosensitive oils can be added to a nightly skin care routine, evening body wash or lotion, bedtime bath, or relaxing massage.

• Cover the application area. Blocking UV rays by covering up will also help reduce your risk of reaction. Apply oil to the back, lower chest, abdomen and throw on a shirt and hat. Just be sure that anywhere you apply oil is fully covered with a heavy or tightly knit material.

• Follow label instructions. Most essential oil companies do label their bottles with safety guidance regarding sun safety and will clearly state how long to avoid the sun. Most undiluted photosensitive oils require 12 hours before sun exposure, but some can take up to 48 hours. Be aware that the amount used, and the dilution play a factor in photosensitive reactions.

• Wear sunscreen. Sunscreen helps keep the skin stay safe in the sun.

What should I do if I have a reaction? 

If you or someone you know is having a reaction, get away from UV exposure immediately and follow one of the following procedures:

After skin reaction:

1. Immediately wash with cold water and soap. Rinse thoroughly.

2. Dilute and rinse the skin with carrier oil like fractionated coconut oil, almond oil, or vegetable oil to dilute the essential oil.

Disclaimer: This blog is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute the practice of medicine, nursing or other professional health care services, including the giving of medical advice. The use of information on this blog or materials linked from this blog is at the user's own risk. The content of this blog is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Users should not disregard, or delay in obtaining, medical advice for any medical condition they may have, and should seek the assistance of their health care professionals for any such conditions.